Lake Como, Slowly

Lake Como is the kind of beautiful that does not need your help. The trick is to stop trying to do it all and let the ferries set the pace.

Base yourself in Varenna

Quieter than Bellagio and just as lovely, Varenna is all pastel houses and lakeside passeggiate. Walk the Lovers' Path at golden hour.

Spend a day on the water

Buy a day ferry pass and hop between the villages: Bellagio for the gardens, Menaggio for lunch, back to Varenna for sunset. The lake is the itinerary.

Dress for the lake

Como is elevated but easy. Think linen, a swimsuit for the hotel dock, and one dress for dinner with a view.

More of an Italian summer: Umbria and Sardinia.